ove the “vintage wash” aesthetic? Get ready to learn the key differences between pigment-dyed and garment-dyed apparel to pick the perfect one for your client’s next item or collection.

The Differences Between Pigment- and Garment-Dyed Washes

If you don’t fully understand the differences between these washes, this is a great place to start.

Pigment-Dyed Garments

These look washed, vintage, and distressed because the dye sits on the fabric surface vs. fully penetrating the fibers. The wash process involves applying color to the surface of pre-woven fabric using pigments bonded using a binder or resin.

Unlike traditional dyes, these pigments don’t chemically react with fabrics so you get a “coating.” This results in a slightly faded and weathered appearance that can continue to soften or fade over time.

Garment-Dyed Apparel

These have a rich, even color throughout the fabric. The garment dye process soaks every level of the fabric so visually you get a more even distribution of color on both the inside and out.

Garment-dyed items are dyed after being sewn resulting in a soft, broken-in or lived-in feel that has a more uniform tone than pigment dyeing. The process involves submerging the finished garment in a dye bath so the color permeates the seams, threads and labels.

The Pros vs. Cons

Both washes are very popular, and the choice ultimately depends on the overall look that your customer wants.

The more vintage, washed-out look, which sometimes can have a rougher feel, are pigment-dyed items. Pigment dye can also have a different look from piece to piece because of the dyeing process, much like tie-dyeing. On the other hand, garment-dyed items have a more natural look and a softer hand.

Here’s a quick breakdown of the pros and cons for each wash type:

Pigment-Dyed

Benefits

• More affordable and faster production
• Vintage, faded look from the first wash
• Works well with heathered or textured fabrics

Cautions

• Less colorfast and fades with washing and drying
• Surface dye coating may peel or crack

Garment-Dyed

Benefits

• Softer hand feel because of post-construction dyeing
• Uniform color permeation, including seams, threads, and labels
• Better for customization and smaller runs

Cautions

• Can potentially be a more expensive option due to manufacturing resources needed to produce these items.
• Can see more color inconsistencies if manufacturer uses mixed materials

What Decoration Methods Work Best with Each Wash

The great news is that you can use almost any type of decoration with pigment- and garment-dyed items, with very few limitations. With anything, you need to do your own testing to make sure you achieve the intended result. For example, some products require lower temperature times when you’re screen printing to avoid hot spots on the fabric.

In addition, if you print improperly with white ink, you risk ink bleeding, meaning the ink pulls color from the dyed fabric.

Important Factors for Decorating Pigment-Dyed Garments

Heat Sensitivity

• Avoid high-heat decoration methods like sublimation or heat transfers since the pigment coating can crack or peel.
• Use low-temperature curing inks, such as water-based inks or plastisol formulated for lower curing temperatures.

Surface Texture & Printability

• The fabric’s matte, coated surface can make ink adhesion a challenge.
• Pre-treatment or adhesion-promoting additives can improve print results.
• Distressed and vintage-style prints blend well with the fabric’s naturally faded look.

Best Use for Embroidery

• Embroidery is a great solution for decorating pigment-dyed apparel which could help avoid any issues you might encounter with the dyed surface of the garment using other methods.
• Since embroidery is a classic decorating method, it could help enhance the timeless quality often associated with vintage apparel.  

Color Considerations

• These fabrics typically feature soft, washed-out hues.
• Choose ink colors that complement their faded tones, such as earthy shades or pastels.

Key Decoration Considerations for Garment-Dyed Apparel

Ideal for Multiple Decoration Methods

• Works well with screen printing, embroidery, and laser etching due to the fabric’s deep dye penetration.

‍Even Dye Distribution

• Provides a smooth base for screen printing and digital prints since the dye is absorbed uniformly.
• You may need underbase for light-colored inks on dark garment-dyed fabrics.

Soft Hand Feel

• To maintain the fabric’s natural softness, we recommend using water-based or discharge inks.

Pre-Washed for Stability

• These garments are typically pre-washed and pre-shrunk, minimizing post-print shrinkage.
• Do wash tests on prints for durability — while pigment dyes can fade, garment dyes are colorfast.

Discharge Printing Capabilities

• Works well for achieving retro-style prints or text designs by removing dye from the fabric.
• Best results with 100% cotton garments.

Color Consistency Challenges

• Because apparel is garment-dyed in batches, slight shade variations may require print adjustments.

The Styles or Looks You Can Achieve for Clients

If you want to achieve a vintage look for your client, try pigment-dyed, which recalls the look and slight feel of washed denim. When a client wants that ’90s retro look, pigment-dyed garments are the way to go.

While you can use garment-dyed tees to achieve a retro look too, these are better for when you’re looking for a more natural, earthy tone that take inspiration from nature.

Here’s a quick overview at the looks you can achieve with each wash:

Pigment-Dyed: Offers a worn-in, distressed look perfect for vintage, rugged, or workwear-inspired styles (e.g., faded t-shirts, retro apparel).

Garment-Dyed: Delivers a smooth, premium finish with a soft-washed feel, ideal for casual, modern, and athleisure essentials.

Key Markets

As far as markets go, these washed shirts have a place everywhere! Pigment- and garment-dyed items are very popular in the collegiate market and the southern states, often seen in tourist shops across the country, on the beach, and everywhere in between. They’re also a favorite in the craft brewery market.

Pigment-Dyed: Vintage-inspired brands and events, workwear and budget-conscious brands
Garment-Dyed: Upleveled casual wear, eco-conscious companies, athleisure and activewear

Start Selling Washed Garments Today

Knowing the subtle differences between pigment- and garment-dyed styles will set you apart from other distributors and decorators. When you can recommend the right fabric wash type and decoration to match your client’s brand and end-wearer, they’ll view you as their go-to apparel provider who deeply understands the nuances of different fabric washes. Present some of these curated t-shirt, pullover, cap, and tote styles to your buyers today and see how well these garments fit their marketing goals.

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