Entrepreneurs and Streetwear Brands MUST Learn This From BAPE
conic streetwear brand BAPE, which once commanded a cult-like following and enjoyed the support of influential celebrities like Pharrell Willams and Virgil Abloh, has lost some of its steam in recent years. BAPE's reputation has taken a hit due to a series of missteps, including questionable collaborations and allegations of bootlegging other brands.
Taking a closer look at what caused the brand’s status and credibility to teeter, is key for any aspiring entrepreneur, especially those looking to start their own lifestyle brand, so they can be sure to avoid making the same mistakes.
The Rise of BAPE
Japanese street-fashion impresario Tomoaki Nagao, a.k.a Nigo, created A Bathing Ape (shortened to BAPE several years later) in the early ‘90s. When Nigo was in high school, he met and started working for Hiroshi Fujiwara, the influential “godfather of Japanese hip-hop” and founder of Goodenough, the country’s first streetwear brand.
In 1993, Nigo launched his own streetwear brand, which aligned with hip-hop stars from the outset and led to meeting British electronic musician, James Lavelle, along with graffiti artist Futura. (As a side note, Nigo, not even a musician, debuted the album (B)Ape Sounds under Lavelle’s label Mo’Wax.)
Then, Nigo’s deep connections in the music world earned him heavy-hitter fans like Pharrell, the Notorious B.I.G., Lil Wayne and Virgil Abloh. Soulja Boy even rapped about acquiring BAPE gear in his 2007 album Crank Dat. Nigo, along with other designers, helped Pharrell launch his labels, Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream.
An Explosion of Popularity
In just a few short years, BAPE exploded into an international brand with flagship stores – and sold in the world’s most popular streetwear stores, while being worn by performers across the globe. BAPE’s unmistakable logo – a silhouette of an ape inspired by Nigo’s favorite, Planet of the Apes – was literally everywhere.
BAPE reigned supreme – even with a cafe and TV station – for about a decade, during the 2000s. After 2010, the luster started to wear off for fans, as the brand continually launched limited edition merch that almost no one could find. The scarcity model definitely limited the brand’s appeal.
Then, in 2011 Hong Kong fashion conglomerate I.T. Group acquired BAPE for a paltry $2.7 million. However, the news also leaked that BAPE was $30 million in debt, showing a company in decline. Nigo stayed on as a creative consultant for the next two years to help with the transition. A year before Nigo sold BAPE, he launched the label, Human Made.
A Spate of ‘Unfortunate’ Collabs
Back in the day, BAPE collabed with the likes of Supreme and Ye. Now, 10 years have passed since Nigo sold his first streetwear brand. However, market watchers argue that since then, the brand has significantly lost credibility – partly due to engaging in poorly thought-out collaborations that appear to prioritize profit above all else.
Critics questioned Supreme's decision to put their logo on "unnecessary things" like mini-fridges and watercraft, asking "Why would you water down your brand by putting your iconic logo on anything?"
Can Collabs Can Damage Your Brand?
Critics say that BAPE’s collaborations don’t seem to have any rhyme or reason – or any marketable backstory. For a streetwear luminary that could collaborate with almost any brand, this approach seemed willy-nilly to fans.
For example, BAPE collabed with Coach to launch a brown leather puffer jacket and clutch that links the APE logo with Coach’s “C” in an all-over print. They also recently partnered with Havaianas to put the APE logo all over the premium flip-flops, as if made for people who just want to show off logoed wear, rather than die-hard brand fans. Further, BAPE’s random partnerships with Amazon, Angry Birds and Minions only added fuel to the bonfire.
Still, another fashion “flop” per critics is BAPE’s sneaker collab with The Avengers – marrying a vintage shoe silhouette with a superhero color story. Unfortunately, the color schemes skewed too young for fans, and made the shoe’s patent leather read “cheap.” Finally, the superhero embellished on the shoe’s outer heel got this shoe called “cheesy” and destined to stay on the list of failed collabs forever.
BAPE has also taken heat for its own 2021 re-launch of APEE, its first women’s collection introduced by Nigo in 2006. The relaunch capsule collection included “trendy pieces” like camo crop tops and leopard print mini-skirts. While layered with BAPE’s logo (on overload), the pieces themselves felt referential and as though they belonged in a store like PacSun or Forever 21 – rather than standing out and setting trends.
Lesson Learned:
If you own an apparel brand, strategic and meaningful collabs are a must to maintain your brand cred and keep loyal customers. When you choose partners, look at brand alignment, your buyers’ likes and dislikes, and your ability to keep the essence of your brand intact. That way, you can maintain relevance in your market space, without ever diluting your brand DNA.
Did BAPE Rip Off Nike?
To add to BAPE’s woes, Nike filed a federal court lawsuit against the Japanese brand for trademark infringement on the Nike Air Force 1, Air Jordan 1 and Nike Dunk. The lawsuit claims that five of BAPE’s best-selling footwear styles, including the NAPE STA and SK8 STA, are “near verbatim” copies of Nike footwear.
Nike alleges that BAPE first ripped off Nike shoes in 2005 in the U.S. market and has continued for 15 years. However, Nike’s lawsuit claims that in 2021 BAPE “drastically increased the volume and scope of this infringement.” This is why Nike acted in early 2023: “BAPE’s copying is and always has been unacceptable to Nike, and because BAPE’s infringements have recently grown to become a significant danger to Nike’s rights, Nike must act now.” Nike said BAPE wouldn’t stop violating trademark infringements even when asked to do so.
In February 2023, BAPE’s legal team requested that Nike dismiss the lawsuit, which Nike is expected to reject. The letter provides additional information about a 14-year dispute between the two companies. In 2009, Nike objected to BAPE’s sneaker designs and suggested a licensing agreement to solve the copying issue.
BAPE lawyers claim that Nike failed to specify the exact nature of its rights in the sneakers’ overall look. Nike's representatives then traveled to Japan to meet with BAPE's leadership and expressed their objections to the designs, proposing an agreement that would require BAPE to stop selling its BAPE STA sneakers. BAPE rejected this proposal, and Nike apparently dropped the matter in 2009. Then in 2012, Nike introduced a new in-house counsel to BAPE, expressing a desire to discuss concerns about the BAPE STA sneakers. However, BAPE alleges the new counsel never reached out.
Ultimately, Nike wants BAPE to stop selling the shoes and pay an undisclosed amount of money to Nike for the damages.
Lesson Learned:
Avoiding trademark infringement, intellectual property rights and copying of any other brand’s goods or services is key for your brand integrity and to avoid legal issues. Plus, you and your team need to be willing to resolve any potential issues or disputes early on to maintain positive relationships with other companies – and avoid the courtroom.
A Streetwear Brand in the Balance
There’s no doubt that BAPE’s reputation as an iconic streetwear brand has suffered in recent years. Fashion experts and brand fans have raised concerns about BAPE’s collaboration missteps and a departure from its roots. Additionally, Nike’s lawsuit alleging long-term trademark infringement further tarnishes BAPE’s image.
The brand’s future indeed hangs in the balance as it navigates these challenges, while it remains to be seen if BAPE tries to regain its former crown in the highly competitive streetwear industry.
A Hard Lesson
For entrepreneurs, BAPE’s struggles are a lesson in how important it is to create a clear direction for your brand. Collaborations have to be well thought out for both companies, so loyal fans of each brand feel that the end product was the result of something special and unique.
They need to feel that there was a vision behind it and that each brand contributed their signature look, style and vision to it. Only then, will your fans and loyal customers want to buy what your selling.